9 am. Overcast. 38 degrees. Sunrise 5 am. Sunset 10 pm.
The stay at Burnt Paw included breakfast, where we chatted with Deborah who lives in Perryville and is doing her speech pathologist rounds in the schools on the mainland. Her heart was heavy with the loss of their local bush pilot. She also told us our intended route to Denali could be cut much shorter by driving via Fairbanks. No problem! We'll visit Chris's friends Dorta, BJ and Kasper.
The drive included views of the Tanana River, impressive in it's braided waterways across the vast valley floor.
Wildlife sightings: Moose, various waterfowl, migrating Snadhill Cranes overhead.
Day 7 - May 2, Tuesday
Leaving the Yukon Territory, we had a long, yet gorgeous day of driving to the U.S. border and beyond to Tok. At the border was the first thawed lake we've encountered and it had a variety of waterfowl we took pleasure in viewing and attempting identification. A cleared path identified the actual border:
Off to Tok, not as barren a town as some might suggest. Dinner at Fast Eddy's. Sleep in a cabin at the Burnt Paw.
Wildlife sightings: black bear, Barrow's Golden Eye, Northern Pintails, Trumpeter Swans, Horned Grebe, Spruce Grouse, caribou.
Day 6 - May 1 -
I awoke in the tent this morning as I felt the earth, move, under my skin but decided it must have been a dream and went back to sleep. Until, what? I felt the earth move again. Weird. Only to find out later in the day that it wasn't so weird. There were 2 earthquakes, epicenter not far from Klukwan which is just up the highway from Haines. People in Whitehorse had shaking homes and power outages.
After breakfast at the Burnt Toast which had great food and atmosphere, we wandered along the shores of the great Yukon River, complete with large chunks of ice/snow breaking up, a swift flow, and a view of the historic Klondike Riverboat.
Finished with our side-trip to Whitehorse, we headed back to Haines Junction and the Wanderer's Inn. No moose or bear today. But! A Northern Harrier, a red-tailed hawk, and more Arctic ground squirrels!
Day 5 - April 30
The night proved quite chilly. Will make adjustments for more comfort tonight.
Awoke to a chilly yet sunny morning. Sitting in camp chairs on the lakeside bluff, listening to gurgling, bubbling water under the ice which occasionally cracks and shifts as it slowly melts into summer. Drove north to Fox Lake (frozen!) and the sight of a huge wildfire of 1998. Back in to the town of Whitehorse for dinner at a real resturant, then a soak in the Takhini Hotsprings. Drive back to the camp in the after-sunset pink glow under a waxing crescent moon.
Day 4 - April 29
Village Bakery (aka Awesome Bakery) fueled us for the long drive east to Whitehorse, Yukon Territory. One hundred miles of views across expansive valleys leading up to rounded mountains in the distance. Straight road leading off into the horizon. Arctic ground squirrels poking their heads up from the shoulder keep us amused as do occasional soaring birds of prey, frozen river crossings, and the ever-vigilant hunt for moose or bear. We settle at a beautiful little campground, closed yet open gated with a few campers, along the shores of Lac LaBarge of Sam McGee fame. The lake, as all the lakes have been, is frozen.
Frozen Lake. Blue Skies. Surreal painting of an old mountain range in the distance.
Day 3 - April 28
Setting out from Haines around noon, we meandered up the road with a drive through Klukwan, multiple pull-out stops for views, and a walk into the closed Million Dollar Falls campground for gorgeous views of rushing falls. A stop at what we had hoped would be at least a one-nighter and kayak paddle at Kathleen Lake, we discovered it frozen over and winds about 30 knots. Beautiful, beautiful setting, we had lots of laughs at how nature forces us to re-think our expectations. Landing in Haines Junction in Yukon Territory we discovered a delightful Wanderer's Inn Backpacker's Hostel, a Bakery full of fresh breads, pastries, deli, wines/bears (oops, I meant beers), espresso, etc. Awesome Bakery.
AN EVENT.
I in my tent, Chris in the rig, we settled in for a sound night of sleep when what to my perked up ears should I hear? .....ohmygawd! Truly loud growling! TRULY LOUD!! Obviously coming from across the water, but those furry four leggers can swim like nobody's business! After gentle to increasingly loud calls for Chris to get out of her rig and hear what I hear, I had to get out of my tent and roust her from shuffling her nesting materials to hear what I hear!! Geez! There it is again!! Chris!! Chris calmly let me know that Kay: those are sea lions.
It just goes to show me how well visualization works. With the vocalization I heard, I was able to imagine a bear on it's hind legs, fore-paws reaching, huge head swaying side-to-side, mouth wide-open, yelling to the world that IT is king of the land!
April 27 - Day 2
Awaking to a 'sun's already full up at 6am' morning stop in Juneau, we continue the sailing up Lynn Canal with Dall Porpoise splashing, mountains rising from the sea, and no rain day.
Arriving in Haines we explore town, stop at Mountain Market for a local hang-out, great deli, excellent coffee and a few groceries. Onward to a woods and shoreline walk along Battery Trail. Raft of Scoters apparently fishing herring. Hilarious to observe their chaotic swimming in their crowded, tight raft, waiting for the right moment to follow the leader and DIVE!
Campsite options are closed (barring the 'Ocean-side Contsruction Dump RV Park, no thanks). Last chance out the road up the Chilkoot we discover a well-kept private camp/cabin establishment! Meeting us on her front porch, we discover that this place also, is closed. No water yet. After a bit of chit-chat, Chris indicates are natural woods-women talents of peeing in the woods and wa-laa! Proprietress immediately indicates where we can drive up the hill, around back of the cabin to a tent site and make ourselves at home! At what cost? No charge! Though a dark chocolate bar was well received as a thank-you!
April 26 - Day 1
Intense squalls greeted us as we established our living quarters for the next 18 hours aboard the Matanuska Ferry. Sleeping pads & bags, sunglasses and rain gear, books, beverages and munchies while enjoying spectacular views and a sound sleep on the 'Lounge Deck' of the Matanuska Ferry. Just a handful of us shared the whole deck!
