Come What May......

Work started May 13th. The workday is long, 8 or 9 hours, always on the move. Taking a break is an intrusion, yet stopping for 10 minutes of quiet serenity throughout the day brings me back to why I'm here.
Housekeeping 11 cabins, 3 guest rooms, and the Mountain House (a 3 bedroom 1.5 bath house) is a lot of work.  A local young woman works full time with me, and the owner/wife helps out too. The accommodations are fresh and tidy with luxurious bedding which makes cleaning a pleasure.  Even though, my hands hurt from pulling sheets, skin is splitting from water and chemicals, and a finger is sprained. Leg cramps have had me rigid in pain (getting that under control now!) and sleep is sometimes evasive.
Nevertheless, my days begin, and continue with a great attitude and energy. How could one be any different? We are situated in a valley with our backs to the Talkeetna Mountain Range and look across the narrow valley to the Chugach Mountain Range. Snow covered, rugged peaks every which way the eyes gaze. Here's a view from our living room lounge.

And this is moose country. Cows have been calving. We've had twins born in our area, and a single. We see a pregnant cow days before birthing lay down more often, then one morning, she's got a calf at her side!

We are at 2750' elevation.
Spring has not yet arrived. This morning, May 30th, there is blue sky and frost. Yesterday the precipitation was snow. Driving down the valley to town (60 miles to Palmer) one can see the greenery of spring making it's way towards us. And it is gorgeous. The Glenn Highway, from Palmer to Glennallen is 137 miles long and famous for it's scenic beauty.  We sit right in the glory of it all!
We have a staff car and enjoy exploring the area, near and far. Day hikes, explorations to towns, overnight camping trips. The young people working here are wonderful people and graciously accepting of me.  We all live in a clean, neat and comfortable Staff House. Two to a bedroom, a living area, kitchen/laundry, and 1.5 baths.
The owners, a 40-ish age couple are wonderful people. He's an energizer bunny with a great attitude and she is a kind, supportive woman who has a talent for decor and interior design. Once the frost is certainly gone, she'll be beautifying the grounds with fresh flowers.

This chapter of life is 4 months long. I've landed in a rich environment with good people and more options for experiences than time allows. When salty seas dry in my hair and wet my face, I'll be a happy paddler. Until then, I'll take in this experience and thoroughly appreciate what the day brings.

ROAD TRIP!

Day 8 - May 3, Wednesday
9 am. Overcast. 38 degrees. Sunrise 5 am.  Sunset 10 pm.
The stay at Burnt Paw included breakfast, where we chatted with Deborah who lives in Perryville and is doing her speech pathologist rounds in the schools on the mainland. Her heart was heavy with the loss of their local bush pilot. She also told us our intended route to Denali could be cut much shorter by driving via Fairbanks. No problem! We'll visit Chris's friends Dorta, BJ and Kasper.
The drive included views of the Tanana River, impressive in it's braided waterways across the vast valley floor.
Wildlife sightings: Moose, various waterfowl, migrating Snadhill Cranes overhead.

Day 7 - May 2, Tuesday
Leaving the Yukon Territory, we had a long, yet gorgeous day of driving to the U.S. border and beyond to Tok. At the border was the first thawed lake we've encountered and it had a variety of waterfowl we took pleasure in viewing and attempting identification. A cleared path identified the actual border:

A stop in the Tetlin Wildlife Refuge had us walking a boardwalk over tundra to Hidden Lake. Frozen Hidden Lake. The only wildflife being a .....Grouse smack in the middle of our path. Thinking itself invisible, it was still as a statue with only it's blinking eyes letting us know it's heart was beating. Chris gently walked right on by.The trees continue to be tall, scraggly slender columns. Views are huge, as was the black bear along the side of the road. We stopped to have a view. It was somewhat curious but decided better to lope down to a side road and off in to the wild. Our first sighting of caribou occurred as we scared them rounding a corner on the highway.
Off to Tok, not as barren a town as some might suggest. Dinner at Fast Eddy's.  Sleep in a cabin at the Burnt Paw.
Wildlife sightings: black bear, Barrow's Golden Eye, Northern Pintails, Trumpeter Swans, Horned Grebe, Spruce Grouse, caribou.


Day 6 - May 1 - 
I awoke in the tent this morning as I felt the earth, move, under my skin but decided it must have been a dream and went back to sleep. Until, what? I felt the earth move again. Weird. Only to find out later in the day that it wasn't so weird. There were 2 earthquakes, epicenter not far from Klukwan which is just up the highway from Haines. People in Whitehorse had shaking homes and power outages.
After breakfast at the Burnt Toast which had great food and atmosphere, we wandered along the shores of the great Yukon River, complete with large chunks of ice/snow breaking up, a swift flow, and a view of the historic Klondike Riverboat.
Finished with our side-trip to Whitehorse, we headed back to Haines Junction and the Wanderer's Inn. No moose or bear today. But! A Northern Harrier, a red-tailed hawk, and more Arctic ground squirrels!

Day 5 - April 30
The night proved quite chilly. Will make adjustments for more comfort tonight.
Awoke to a chilly yet sunny morning. Sitting in camp chairs on the lakeside bluff, listening to gurgling, bubbling water under the ice which occasionally cracks and shifts as it slowly melts into summer. Drove north to Fox Lake (frozen!) and the sight of a huge wildfire of 1998. Back in to the town of Whitehorse for dinner at a real resturant, then a soak in the Takhini Hotsprings. Drive back to the camp in the after-sunset pink glow under a waxing crescent moon.


Day 4 - April 29
Village Bakery (aka Awesome Bakery) fueled us for the long drive east to Whitehorse, Yukon Territory. One hundred miles of views across expansive valleys leading up to rounded mountains in the distance. Straight road leading off into the horizon. Arctic ground squirrels poking their heads up from the shoulder keep us amused as do occasional soaring birds of prey, frozen river crossings, and the ever-vigilant hunt for moose or bear. We settle at a beautiful little campground, closed yet open gated with a few campers, along the shores of Lac LaBarge of Sam McGee fame. The lake, as all the lakes have been, is frozen.

It is cold, and our neighbor-campers brought us armloads of campwood. Again, a Moonstruck dark chocolate bar expressed thanks to our generous neighbors.

Frozen Lake. Blue Skies. Surreal painting of an old mountain range in the distance.

Day 3 - April 28
Setting out from Haines around noon, we meandered up the road with a drive through Klukwan, multiple pull-out stops for views, and a walk into the closed Million Dollar Falls campground for gorgeous views of rushing falls. A stop at what we had hoped would be at least a one-nighter and kayak paddle at Kathleen Lake, we discovered it frozen over and winds about 30 knots. Beautiful, beautiful setting, we had lots of laughs at how nature forces us to re-think our expectations. Landing in Haines Junction in Yukon Territory we discovered a delightful Wanderer's Inn Backpacker's Hostel, a Bakery full of fresh breads, pastries, deli, wines/bears (oops, I meant beers), espresso, etc. Awesome Bakery.

AN EVENT.
I in my tent, Chris in the rig, we settled in for a sound night of sleep when what to my perked up ears should I hear?      .....ohmygawd! Truly loud growling! TRULY LOUD!! Obviously coming from across the water, but those furry four leggers can swim like nobody's business!  After gentle to increasingly loud calls for Chris to get out of her rig and hear what I hear, I had to get out of my tent and roust her from shuffling her nesting materials to hear what I hear!! Geez! There it is again!! Chris!!  Chris calmly let me know that Kay: those are sea lions.

It just goes to show me how well visualization works. With the vocalization I heard, I was able to imagine a bear on it's hind legs, fore-paws reaching, huge head swaying side-to-side, mouth wide-open, yelling to the world that IT is king of the land!

April 27 - Day 2
Awaking to a 'sun's already full up at 6am' morning stop in Juneau, we continue the sailing up Lynn Canal with Dall Porpoise splashing, mountains rising from the sea, and no rain day.
Arriving in Haines we explore town, stop at Mountain Market for a local hang-out, great deli, excellent coffee and a few groceries. Onward to a woods and shoreline walk along Battery Trail. Raft of Scoters apparently fishing herring. Hilarious to observe their chaotic swimming in their crowded, tight raft, waiting for the right moment to follow the leader and DIVE!
Campsite options are closed (barring the 'Ocean-side Contsruction Dump RV Park, no thanks). Last chance out the road up the Chilkoot we discover a well-kept private camp/cabin establishment! Meeting us on her front porch, we discover that this place also, is closed. No water yet. After a bit of chit-chat, Chris indicates are natural woods-women talents of peeing in the woods and wa-laa! Proprietress immediately indicates where we can drive up the hill, around back of the cabin to a tent site and make ourselves at home! At what cost? No charge! Though a dark chocolate bar was well received as a thank-you!

April 26 - Day 1
Intense squalls greeted us as we established our living quarters for the next 18 hours aboard the Matanuska Ferry. Sleeping pads & bags, sunglasses and rain gear, books, beverages and munchies while enjoying spectacular views and a sound sleep on the 'Lounge Deck' of the Matanuska Ferry. Just a handful of us shared the whole deck!

Off the Rock and Into the Wild!

It's been an unanticipated delightful winter in Sitka. Arriving in October with a place to live and an open mind,  I am grateful and count myself lucky to have met some special individuals who are now friends, and to have explored this little 'city' on a rock on the edge of the continent. What a pleasure to walk out the door, down the street, look out over Sitka Sound through the islands to the open ocean, then turn around and view majestic snow-covered peaks and have access trails to lakes and muskegs, rivers and wildlife, saltwater, bays & inlets. Enjoying evenings of local and regional talent, reading local and regional authors, art gallery walks, artisan fairs, community parades, Univeristy lectures on history, wildlife, flora & fauna and on and on. Winter has been a never-ending opportunity to meet, enjoy, learn and participate. And now, as Spring unfolds with the scent of skunk cabbage and low tides in the air, buzzing activity on the docks, downtown sprucing up for the summer tourists, I am packing up to leave Sitka and the Rock (Baranof Island)

A new and dear friend, CT (short for Chris Todd) is an adventurous soul. Back in February, when explaining my summer plans for seasonal work at Sheep Mountain Lodge her mind was scheming as I spoke. By the end of the conversation, we had plans for a 2-week road trip prior to my mid-May start date at S.M.L! Car space fills quickly on the ferries and CT wasted no time in securing passage from Sitka to Haines the next day. That girl makes sound decisions then MOVES on them!

We leave on April 26th. Ferry to Haines and then a camping/road-trip in South Central Alaska until she drops me at S.M.L. by my May 13th start date.

The road trip will bring us to hot pools in Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, and weather dependent we'll lollygag where we want, camping, kayaking, hiking or put miles on the tires and maybe get to get to Fairbanks, maybe Denali, maybe Seward! It's still cold up north, and the tourist season doesn't open until mid-May. Thus, with anything possible, we'll enjoy the escapade wherever it finds us!

Expecting to remain at S.M.L. until season-end on September 16th, I have built in 6 weeks of playtime before heading back to Sitka for another winter. (Of course, plans can always change!) Driving down the AlCan Highway would be optimal if anyone is so inclined to consider that option with me, (imagine my fluttering eyelashes and gentle smile seducing you into this adventure!).

Practicals: Sheep Mountain Lodge on the Glenn Highway near Glacier View. 17701 Glenn Hwy, Sutton, AK 99674  Google it!

Big news for me is I now have an Alaska State driver's licence and am registered to vote in AK. One more liberal blue voter in the Great North!

Thanks for reading the blog!

Such a Tease

Today is Saturday, March 4, 2017. The sun rose at 6:45 a.m. There is snow on the ground. The sky is blue and cloudless. A gorgeous day in the city and borough of Sitka.

Several hours into the day, sitting in the sun porch donning sun glasses, one needs to strip off layers of clothing to keep from over-heating. It must be 65, 70 degrees! However, a strange sight hangs just outside the single-pane sun porch windows: icicles. And they’re not dripping.

Luckily I can, and will, stay indoors. The sidewalks are icy from recent snow-then-melt. One good tumble was enough for me. I now realize why the native peoples further north walk a bit hunched over and take short shifting steps. 

When the sun goes down, the Sun Porch turns in to a Walk-in Freezer.  No loitering around the check-in desk and radio. The Walk-in Freezer gets closed off from the rest of the hostel and everyone heads for their warm rooms and cozy beds.

The light of the sun, and the warmth of the Sun Porch are such a tease to go outdoors!

Friends & Family - Support & Tolerance

Mid-February found me in Seattle for a week! Visiting in small gatherings or one-on-one there’s not enough time to visit everyone.
However, the relaxed, personal time spent with Emily & Chris, family members and a few friends was treasured.

Having lunch with the ‘Quijote Crew’ was inspiring and heart-warming. And spending a couple hours on Quijote, even tied in her moorage slip, had me desirous to be afloat again.

Except for missing out on seeing a few special friends, it was a perfect week.


In Sitka, choosing to volunteer or participate in activities & events which have personal meaning has provided a base to meet welcoming, engaging individuals of like-mindedness. Building relationships takes time but the rewards are ever-surprising. After just four months, there are a few good friends who would help if the need arose; from offering transportation to providing shelter or a safe place, to warning me of quirks or worse in individuals I’ve connected with. People are not alienated because of odd traits, or even illegal activity. In my small circle, the gossip is not damaging as much as it is ‘watch out for’. Incorporating that everyone carries ‘baggage’, people I’ve met appear to be a liberal, tolerant lot.

It is family and friends who give my life substance and depth. Relationships are challenging, yet at the same time they foster a foundation on which to grow. One thing for which I am deeply grateful is the lack of judgment on me stepping out of stability and normalcy to try something different and uncertain.

What would life be if traveled alone, without knowing there are people who care about you, or a safe place to land. I am a lucky woman. Thank you for your support  and tolerance.

Hostel & House Parenting

hos·tel

ˈhästl/

noun

1. an establishment that provides inexpensive food and lodging for a specific group of people, such as students, workers, or travelers.
2. 
   

The Sitka International Hostel is housed in a historic building which was part of the former Sheldon Jackson school and college campus. The Sheldon Jackson college is now home to Sitka Fine Arts encompassing several beautifully restored historic buildings used year-round by artist & music camps and providing rental space for events.


Photo above: Overlooking Crescent Harbor across the SJ Campus and beyond.

The hostel, just across the street from the campus, is not so beautifully restored but still a fine building. Rented from landlords who also own and operate Sitka's fine daily newspaper, the Sitka Hostel is genuinely adored by hostellers who are looking for less party, more conversation and a quiet place to relax and sleep. No, we don't serve food as suggested in the definition of a hostel, whew!

Co-ed Dorm - The Loft

Main Floor Kitchen

The Sun Porch is a visually warm and welcoming entry to the hostel. It serves as office, a space to visit, read, listen to the community radio station, KCAW, (which  by the way, has PBS offerings and awesome programs by local volunteers AND celebrates the local 2-feet, 1-beak population in its 'call' letters!).
However, the winter winds knocking on window panes and swirling under the threshold make it a less desirable hang-out in the winter months!












A full team of house parents consists of 3 individuals (sometimes a partner is a tag-along and enjoys free rent too). That is the catch, NO RENT & UTILITIES! We are all volunteers with minimal expectations from our manager. We enjoy free rent and $125.00 monthly gift card to the local grocery in exchange for 2 shifts/week and occasionally 3. A shift includes cleaning/preparing any rooms or beds that have been vacated, welcoming and orienting new guests, and 'manning' the station between 6-10pm and 8:30 - 10am. The Hostel is closed daily between 10am and 6pm giving volunteers an opportunity to work or play.

I enjoy a large room to myself with a double bed, a futon couch, and windows. A young couple and I share a bathroom between our rooms.

There's no manual for policy & procedure so the House Parents can adhere to their personal interpretation of the verbal introduction and whatever other one-on-one they might get from the hostel manager, Denton. If we take it upon ourselves to 'own' more than the minimum expectations, I say that's a yippee for everyone! We all have different standards, and it can be a challenging experience, for all of us I'm sure. :)

This opportunity to live light, see a part of our country which has always fascinated and allured, meet welcoming locals, and celebrate travelers from near and far is exciting, humbling, and no less than fantastic!

Happy Travels!

Ursus arctos sitkensis

Tom on Vashon, this one's for you:

Is it a brown bear or a grizzly?  The answer is that all grizzlies are brown bears, but not all brown bears are grizzlies. The correct scientific name for a grizzly is "brown bear," but only coastal bears in Alaska and Canada are generally referred to as such. Apparently there is yet another subspecies of the brown bear which only resides on the ABC islands of SE Alaska (Admiralty, Baranof and Chichigof Islands). It has a unique genetic structure relating them to brown bears and polar bears.

Sitka is on the "B" island; Baranof Island.

Due to my over-active imagination when it comes to bears, I brushed up on my bear aware knowledge while sleuthing the internet for Sitka area bear encounters before heading north. There had been a few recent events, in fact, more than normal. The events however took place in remote locations. Hopefully no Ursus arctos sitkensis were roaming Sitka town.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0JQJNsMKig

An unusual 'one-two' punch in nature found the local bear population more hungry than sleepy in November this year.  The berry season arrived early, (or perhaps Lava picked all the berries before the bears had a chance!) and there was a failed pink salmon run. On top of that, there appear to be more cubs than normal. Sows and cubs are a deadly combination particularly when food is scarce. Woe to those who cross a mother who is protecting her sustenance and offspring.

As Sitka seems to be Facebook Capital of the World, naturally there is a Facebook page created for communicating in-town bear sightings and activity. That page is a 'favorite' of mine and was monitored regularly. Indeed, there was and is bear activity around town. Four bears making themselves known. They've become regular midnight marauders of neighborhood garbage cans.

Authorities had hoped they'd soon get sleepy and cold, head for higher ground and hibernate.  No such luck.

A sow and two cubs ultimately scored a full, oversized garbage can. With too much to eat in one or two sittings, the garbage was cached. At that point, the bears would now become very aggressive to protect their prize. Their ultimate score was their ultimate demise. Wildlife troopers came in and 'dispatched' all three animals.



On the other side of town, closer to my home, a very large bear continues to be a nightly neighborhood nuisance. Apparently this one is still wary of people so authorities are not searching him out. However, he is a garbage bear. A fed bear. And a fed bear is a dead bear. It makes me wonder what the authorities are now are waiting for.

Perhaps this choice of living in Sitka is in some way directly correlated to overcoming the Big Bad Bear dreams which occasionally visit my slumbering subconscious. Hmph! And I always thought the Big Bad Bear dreams were an interpretation of some other aspect in my life! Well, I'm certainly in an environment where I can learn how to avoid encounters and practice safe habits. I'll be a happy camper if I never stumble upon a bear in the wild.